Climbing pix
The Pre-Ph.D-Defense-Blowing-Off-Steam Climbing Tour
Petit Grepon
I started off with a week in Colorado with my friend Laurie.
We climbed the Bastille Crack in Eldorado Canyon (three hours bottom
to bottom, pretty fast for us), then were off for our primary
objectives in Rocky Mountain National Park. Two of the 50 Crowded
Classics, Hallett's North Face, 5.7, and the Petit Grepon, 5.8. We
got hailed off of Hallett's after the fifth pitch (not as fast as we
needed to be, and a little trouble route-finding). The PG was a
success, though. Here's a picture of the last 2-3 pitches from the
back, after the rap off the top. An amazing route. Go do it before
it falls over.
Laurie and me
Here's the classic 'camera at arm's length' summit photo of me and Laurie
on the PG. We also went to Lumpy Ridge and Penitente Canyon. Two speeding
tickets, one case of food poisoning, and some great climbing before we had
go back to Texas.
Leaning Tower
I then went to Yosemite for some big wall climbing. I did the Prow as
my first-ever wall (we were slow ), then the Leaning Tower.
This is a shot of me leading the first pitch. Classic butt shot, but you
can get an idea of how much the route overhangs. The haul rope hanging down
indicates the steepness. The pig ends up swinging in space about 20 feet
away from the wall after the first pitch, making for nice hauls, but a very
committing climb, as I don't know how you'd bail (down-aid? You might as
well go up). Consistently steep route.
Way fun. Two days. You must party on the Ahwahnee Ledge. As my fellow
Yosemite Lodge Parking Lot climbing bums would say, it's a nice hang.
Zodiac
We then started up Zodiac, our first El Cap wall. My partner (who
shall remain unnamed) went brain dead on the first pitch and left
three pieces in, a brand new RP and two camming devices (major pain to
go back and get). Things were going slow, and I was running up
against a plane ticket deadline, so we bailed. This is me on the
first pitch. I took an upside down 20-footer when a copperhead popped
(yes, I jump tested it, and it didn't blow until I was top-stepping to
get the next placement). Some Koreans were having a major rescue epic
on the Nose. Lots of helicopters, bullhorns, and bad juju. I got a
Solo-Aider for graduation, though, so I intend to return to this
route.
Postscript: I returned to this route in May of 1997 and
soloed it successfully. Click here for the trip report.
I then met my friend Alan from Houston at Smith Rock, for a restful (mentally,
anyway) week of clipping bolts. Lots of 11a onsights, 11b one-falls, and
11c/d hangfests. Heinous Cling and Chain Reaction were safe from us. My
best effort here was an almost onsight of Vomit Launcher (11b), where I pumped
out of the huge handcrack about one foot below the chains. Other great
routes were License to Bolt, Chained Lightning (?), and Ring of Fire.